HUME AND HOVELL

JOURNEY INTO VICTORIA, 1824-1825. THE ROUTE DESCRIBED

by H. HANSFORD

This article deals briefly and almost wholly with that portion of the explorers' journey through Victoria, giving their line of route and the site of their camps in co-relation with the rivers, creeks, and towns adjacent thereto as we know them to-day.

On October 3, 1824, a small party of eight men left Appin, a small town some 40 miles south of Sydney, on a journey of discovery, with Westernport, on the south coast of what was then called New South Wales, as their objective. Various persons had expressed the opinion that this portion of the colony would be found to be a barren, waterless region, totally unfit for settlement. The objects of the expedition were to find out whether these opinions were correct, and, if untrue, to discover if there were lands suitable for settlement. Their equipment and stores consisted of five bullocks, two horses, two carts, pack-saddles, 1,200lb. flour, 350lb. pork, and some tea, sugar, salt, tobacco, soap, &c., almost the whole being supplied by themselves, the expedition being probably the most ill-equipped that had ever set out "into the unknown" under the auspices of any Government.

After much toil they arrived on November 16 at the banks of a very fine river, "at least 200ft. wide, which they named the Hume," Mr. Hume being the first to see it. As it was impossible to cross here on account of its breadth and depth, they followed the river down some miles with unsatisfactory results. They then returned and camped where they had first seen it.

The next day they proceeded upstream, eventually crossing on Novemeber 20 some miles above its junction with the Mitta River, and, moving some two miles into the bush, camped for the night.

Resuming their journey early next morning south-westerly, they crossed the Mitta, and shortly afterwards the Kiewa River. Here natives appeared to be numerous, their fires being in every direction. Travelling down the valley of Yackandandah Creek, they camped for the night between Allan's Flat and Osborne's Flat.

The following day, November 23, they crossed several ranges and creeks in poor country, and camped on Back Creek, east of the township of Stanley. On Novemeber 24 they reached the Ovens River, named in compliment to Major Ovens, after travelling through the "perfectly level" country of Bowman's Forest. Hume held the opinion that the rivers they had crossed emptied themselves into the sea, whether an inland sea or the ocean he was not sure. Hovell thought that they fell into one immense lake, and the waters from the lake emptied into the ocean on the north-east or south-west coast. Crossing the river on the following morning, and directing their course south-west, as usual, they passed near the site of Whorouly township, 

and climbed a range at Kneebone's Gap (Mount Buffalo was named here by the explorers). Crossing Hurdle Creek and the intervening ranges, they camped at some waterholes on Meadow Creek. Early next day they crossed the King River, and then Boggy Creek, where they rested. Resuming their journey, they climbed a range, the highest point of which they named Mount Bellevue, on account of the "very fine prospect" on every side. Descending from this to the Fifteen mile Creek, they camped for the night (November 26). The following two days they had a rough journey over stony ranges, which crippled the cattle and fatigued the men.

On November 27 they camped on Holland's Creek, on the 28th at Samaria Creek. Here they stopped all day to rest the cattle, after a short stage of four miles, as there was good grass. They camped on the Broken River about a mile north of Barjarg school on the night of November 29. They travelled 10½ miles the next day, camping at Tallanganook Creek, one mile and a half south-east of Dry Creek township.

A short journey of 4¾ miles brought them near the site of Ancona school, where they rested the cattle, and sent two men back in an unsuccessful search for some missing dogs.

CHECKED AT FLOWERDALE

The following evening, December 2, after crossing some ranges and Merton's Creek, they camped about two and a half miles above Yarck, and next day, following Hume Creek down some eight miles, they reached the Goulburn River, "a fine stream as wide as the Hume." On Saturday, December 4, they crossed the river, carrying their stores over on a fallen tree, the bullocks and horses swimming across. Passing through the swamps and lagoons on its banks, they came to a hill (Cotton's Pinch), where several observations were taken, certain hills and openings being noted. They next crossed Muddy Creek (Yea River), so called on account of its muddy banks. One mile farther on from this river they camped, the position being one mile south of Yea township. They rested the cattle here on Sunday, December 5, the men meanwhile repairing their torn clothing and catching fish.

After crossing several ranges and dry creeks on the following day, they found water at a distance of 12 miles from their last camp. They camped some two miles south of Flowerdale School, and 2¼ miles east of King Parrot Creek, which they reached early on December 7. This creek was so named, as here they saw the first king parrot since leaving home. Leaving the creek later in the day, and after crossing a range, they began the ascent of Mount Disappointment Range, reaching the top after much labour. Keeping to their course south-westerly, the men cutting a way for the cattle through the dense scrub, they proceeded for one mile, when, as it was getting dark, they camped for the night on a bed of stones, and without water. Setting out early next morning, they moved on, struggling through the thick undergrowth and over rough slimy ground and fallen trees for one mile and a quarter, when they decided that further progress was impossible. Returning on their track and descending the range, they found water, which they were sorely in need of, they having been 18 hours without that precious fluid. Again crossing King Parrot Creek, they followed it down for two miles, when they camped. The two leaders then decided to make a further attempt on the mountain range to see if it were possible to discover a way through in the direction they wished to travel. So, taking provisions (flour, tea, and sugar was all they had) and two men, they left the camp. On reaching the top and following their previous track, the struggle was renewed and continued for the day. Wearied out, they slept soundly on a stony bed. Rising early and reviewing the position, they were of the opinion that it would be madness to try to proceed further; they returned then to the camp on the creek, their clothes torn and bruised in body.

INTO OPEN COUNTRY

On December 10 they moved northerly, following the creek, and camped for the night some six or seven miles south of Strath Creek. Near the township they breakfasted next morning, and then turned westerly for a mile, when they were driven back in haste by fire and smoke to the creek; following its course down one mile they camped for the night. No doubt the natives were lighting these fires with the object of stopping their progress. The next morning, travelling north-westerly, they came to the top of a range, from which they saw and named Mount Piper, and setting a course in its direction, crossing Reedy Creek (one mile north of Tyaak) and some intervening ranges, came to Sunday Creek, on Sunday, December 12, when they camped for the night.

The next day, following the creek upwards seven miles till they came to a place convenient to cross, they travelled southwesterly, pausing over several ranges, eventually crossing the Great Dividing Range at Hume's Pass, near Heathcote Junction railway station, and descending the range, camped beside some waterholes on the head waters of Merri Creek, half a mile south of Wallan railway station. There they noted the important fact that the waters ran southward.

December 14

The party now was in better spirits, as the view opening out in front of them disclosed a marked change for the better, mostly open forest, the land gradually falling in their direction of travel, with no high ranges, such as had given them so much trouble for many weeks past. Travelling on, they ascended Mount Bland (named after Dr. Bland, of Sydney), half a mile north of Beveridge, and were cheered with the gratifying sight that met their view an extensive plain, with patches of forest, small conical hills here and there; a fine open country for travelling. Continuing their journey, they came to a place where they expected to find water, but it was quite dry; the country seemed patched, and burnt up with drought. Going on, they crossed a small hill, where the perambulator (measuring wheel) was broken in pieces. One can quite imagine that the men were not sorry to be relieved of such a burden. At last, after travelling some 21 miles, they found water at Relief Creek (Moonee Ponds), one mile north-easterly from Bulla. There they camped for the night.

PORT PHILLIP REACHED - December 15

They started late, the cattle and men being fatigued with the long stage of the previous day, and soon reached Broughton's Creek (Maribyrnong River), with banks 50ft. or 60ft. deep. They then came to Captain's Creek (Kororoit Creek), and farther on stopped at the banks of a river, which they named the Arndell (Werribee River), after Mrs. Hovell's father, Dr. Arndell. The travellers were pleased to find the country watered better than they expected. On December 16, after travelling six miles, they saw to the southward what they thought was smoke, until at last they found what they thought to be fire and smoke, was the very thing they were so anxiously looking out for - the sea. At 5 o'clock, they reached the shore of Port Phillip, going out on a point of land (Point Wilson). The whole party was now in high spirits at the successful issue of their mission; they having reached their objective on the south coast of the colony. They camped in some timber this night, without water, and rising early the following morning moved up Kennedy's Creek (Hovell's Creek, or Duck Ponds) in search of fresh water, which they found near Lara, there they first saw natives during their travels; they proved troublesome and thieving about their camp; and although appearing not to be astonished at the bullocks, were evidently in great fear of them. The explorers encouraged this fear, and they had no doubt that it was the reason of their immunity from molestation by the natives during the whole of their journey.

https://ergo.slv.vic.gov.au/sites/default/files/imagecache/download/vc100133.jpg

Please note this description  of Dec 15  & 16 does not match Pritchard's  new termination at Werribee River but is included  as it describes the traditional route termination at Lara.